We didn’t learn as much German as we should have while living in Vienna, but I did manage to pick up one lesson: The art of the German language is definitely not in the sound of the words themselves, but instead in the elegance of the ideas and images those words can evoke when they’re smooshed together into little linguistic Schichtkuchen (layer cakes).
Take the word Sehnsucht, for example. Google translates it to “nostalgia,” but this seemingly simple thing is actually much more complicated — just like everything else in Austria. Break the compound word apart and the little words mean “to see,” “to investigate.” Put them back together, and you get something like “life longing,” or “a sense of separation from the imaginative experience we crave,” a translation I particularly like and picked up here.
Anyway, this nuanced sort of longing — not for the reality of an experience but for the imagined perfection of it — is something that speaks deeply to how I felt about being back in Vienna for three weeks after almost a year away. This city never became home for us, not really, but our visit made us feel like maybe in fact Vienna had been, if only for just awhile.Read More »
“The eternal hourglass of existence is turned upside down again and again, and you with it, speck of dust!”
I don’t usually have an excuse to quote Nietzsche on this blog, but no one sums up the repetition of experience over time quite like him. Our 2018 summer trip was all about time folding back in on itself; it was our second time in central Europe in two years, and we got to spend time with some of our favorite people from very different eras of our lives. During our six weeks abroad, we both felt time speed up in certain places and then slow back down in others. We saw how much can change in a year, as well as how little. But mostly, we felt how interconnected we are with other people and places, across timespans both long and short.Read More »
The cure for anything is salt water — sweat, tears, or the sea. (Danish writer Karen Blixen)
February is a tough time to be a lot of places, and Vienna is no exception. Volatile weather, gray skies, cranky people — this month is not our adopted city’s finest, and we were very much in need of a getaway.
And what better place to design an uplifting weekend than Copenhagen, capital of the world’s happiest country and a headquarter of Scandinavian style?
I know I’ve said this many times, but nobody does Christmas like the Austrians. Nobody.
Almost every European city has a Christmas market of some sort, but Vienna (of course) claims to have started it all with a massive December market in 1294.
I decided to walk my way through Advent season by visiting 25 of Vienna’s more than 40 annual Christmas markets, pop-ups, and bazaars. (Matt was a good sport for about a half dozen!) To do so, I traveled to some of Vienna’s farthest corners and visited many of the city’s lesser known parks and landmarks.
We made a quick run over to Bratislava this weekend. The capital of Slovakia is only an hour by train from Vienna, and though I wouldn’t call it a major European highlight, it was a surprisingly charming stop.Read More »